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Skin Vitamins

 

There is evidence showing the connection between diet and skin. Great skin is not always about good genes, DIET is key which includes the supplements you take for your skin.

 

The supplements and vitamins listed below have been scientifically proven to help clear up clogged pores, boost radiance, calm inflammation, reduce imperfections, and even slow down signs of aging.

 

Studies show that most people are deficient in one of the following or all three: Vitamins A, E & zinc.

 

Vitamin A – dubbed the acne fighter

Vitamin A is commonly prescribed by dermatologists for patients with acne-prone skin. Vitamin A is a very effective anti - oxidant that decreases the size of sebaceous glands and the amount of oil skin produces.

Anti-oxidants protect the skin by reducing the production of free radicals in the body, which free radicals damage skin cells.

When your body doesn’t have enough vitamin A, dead skin cells build-up, clogging pores, and triggering breakouts. Vitamin A has been shown to:

· Help the body shed off dead skin cells s

· Reduce inflammation – vitamin a can help calm down swollen, red areas on the skin causing breakouts

· Reduce severe acne

Please check with a healthcare provider before taking vitamin A in supplement form. This is because studies have shown that high levels of vitamin A may lead to vomiting, dry skin, hair loss, or birth defects.

 

 

 

In a recent study, people with acne were shown to suffer from vitamin E, A, and zinc deficiencies.

Dermatologists often recommend vitamin A for patients with acne-prone skin. This is because vitamin A is a very effective anti -oxidant that decreases the size of sebaceous glands and the amount of oil skin produces.

Anti-oxidants protect the skin by reducing the production of free radicals in the body, which damages skin cells. When your body doesn’t have enough vitamin A, dead skin cells build-up, clogging pores, and triggering breakouts. Vitamin A has been shown to:

· Reduce severe acne

· Help the body shed off dead skin cells

· Reduce inflammation – vitamin a can help calm down swollen, red areas on the skin causing breakouts

· It is highly recommended to consult a healthcare provided before taking vitamin A in supplement form. This is because studies have shown that high levels of vitamin A may lead to vomiting, dry skin, hair loss, or birth defects.

 

Vitamin C – the fixer-

For those that feel their skin is dull or have scarring, hyper pigmentation, rosacea, are recovering from a major acne breakout, supplementing with vitamin C may be the answer.

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is an antioxidant, protecting your body’s cells from the damage caused by free radicals, which are formed when bodies convert food into energy.

Free radicals are all around us in the environment from cigarette smoke, air pollution, and ultraviolet light from the sun.

 

Vitamins C benefits

Boosts collagen production.

· Repairs sun-damage (when taken orally for at least 8 weeks.)

· Hydrates dry skin

· Helps with wound healing and uneven skin texture from discoloration, when applied topically, daily for at least 3 months. Also help smooth out scars and fade brown spots

 

Note:. Vitamin C applied topically can be too strong for certain skin types, and may even react poorly with ingredients found in some cosmetic products such as glycolic acid. Tread carefully if you have sensitive skin. Pumpkins contain anti-oxidants vitamin A and vitamin C.

 

Pineapple is a natural example of rich vitamin C, good for skin health.

Omega-3 – For calming

Omega 3 fatty acids are some of the best natural anti -inflammatories out there. If you suffer from psoriasis, you definitely need them. Supplementary treatment with omega-3 fatty acids has been shown to help treat psoriasis.

 

Omega-3s have also been shown to:

Counteract inflammation of the skin

Help lessen skin redness.

A lack of omega-3 has been linked to rough, scaly skin and dermatitis.

Vitamin E – the protector

Using a vitamin E oil has been shown to be especially effective at repairing acute sun damage (i.e. sunburns) when taken in combination with vitamin C. Vitamin E has also been shown to:

· Reduce acute and chronic skin damage caused by UV irradiation

· Neutralize free radicals and act as a powerful anti-oxidant.

· Improve immune function and skin durability.

Women should consume around 15 milligrams of vitamin E (mg) each day.

 

Magnesium - for destressing

If you feel like your breakouts are connected to stress or are hormonal read on. Magnesium can help improve your skin’s overall appearance. Magnesium can help to reduce acne and other skin disorders by lowering cortisol levels, stabilizing hormonal imbalances, and improving cellular function overall.. Magnesium has been shown to:

· Reduce levels of cortisol, which is a stress hormone

· Make vitamin C more effective if you have enough magnesium

· Minimise inflammation.

Even though your body releases magnesium as a defense against stress, you may need more. Taking a daily supplement may give you the amount you need to clear up your skin.

 

Did you know? Studies show around 40% of adults deal with low-grade acne.

Vitamin D – the UV fighter

Vitamin D is especially beneficial for sun damage & has been shown to:

· Help heal skin and address discoloration from long-term sun damage

· Make you possibly more prone to suffering from acne, based on some research.

 

Zinc – for healing

Zinc is another powerful anti-oxidant and important micronutrient required for the normal functioning of the skin Zinc is great for pimples. If you're ever feeling stressed and notice tiny pimples on your scalp? Try getting more zinc in your diet orally or try a topical zinc treatment, such as zinc shampoo.

Studies have shown the benefits of Zinc to:

· Applied topically, zinc can help to treat acne and accelerate wound healing

· Zinc sulfate treats erosive pustular and crusting of the scalp.

· Zinc has been shown to be effective in the treatment in the quality of sleep and stress & Atopic Dermatitis (AD) suffering individuals – . Resveratrol, found in red wine is a powerful anti-oxidant found in red grapes. skins, Zinc has been found to prevent the wrinkles, lines, and sagging caused by environmental skin agents like smog and second-hand smoke.

Skin Ageing

 

Quite simply this is the process of getting older which is most noticeably manifest in our largest organ, the skin. We are living longer and the anti ageing market is growing!

In terms o the science behind ageing, the cells reduce both in size and quantity, and quite frankly doesn’t function as effectively as a protective barrier, the regulation of temperature is not as efficient, there is a decrease in sebum production and vitamin D.

 

The skin starts thinning due to reduced, elastin, collagen & hyaluronic acid too. Its been quoted that the rate of collagen production falls by 1% every year after the age of twenty!) Cell turnover is more sluggish and wounds heal at a slower rate.

All of these changes manifest in dryer skin, lines and wrinkles, sagging skin, broken blood vessels, skin textural changes, uneven pigmented skin & thread veins. The age at which one notices these changes can vary greatly. The changes extend beyond the skin to our bodies immune response, resulting in diagnosis of diseases like Cancer.

There are many reasons behind ageing skin, extrinsic (controllable) & intrinsic factors. 

 

 

Intrinsic or chronological ageing cannot be prevented unfortunately and is primarily genetically determined. I will now go into some of the details:

Hormonal changes, contribute to skin ageing, which women are more affected, due to their complex hormonal patterns, ( not just at that time of the month either.) Post menopause, oestrogen declines, which is directly linked to lack of hydration, loss of skin elasticity& reduced water binding ability. Skin changes very noticeably post menopause.

 

Mitochondria ( referred to as the cells powerhouse) found central to our cells, are responsible for converting our oxygen and nutrients into the chemical energy required to power them. The harmful side effect of producing energy are free radicals and harmful molecules, which over time, if accumulated, damage cells.

Our DNA is compacted into chromosomes with specialised regions at the end of chromosomes called Telomeres and prevent the fraying of such chromosomes, and prevents them sticking together. With each cell division, telomeres get shorter, and when short enough the cell can no longer divide and dies. The process of shortening has been associated with ageing. 

 

When we take a look at factors of extrinsic ageing, which we fortunately can control!

The UV A & B rays from sun, is a major factor affecting the skin’s extrinsic ageing process. Sun protection is essential in preventing this extrinsic agent. It has been confirmed that sunlight contributes to 80-90% of the visible effects of ageing, such as age/sun spots, pigmentation and skin elasticity. This can be further highlighted by comparing parts of our body that are not exposed to the sun with parts that are exposed.

 

UVA is the dominant ray at a ratio of 20: 1 UVB. UVA is powerful enough to penetrate clouds & glass and damaging our skin. The amount of UVA that reaches us during the year is consistent compared with UVB, which only reaches the UK in the Summer. The different UV affects our skin at different depths. Since UVB waves are shorter waves, they only penetrate the upper skin layers (epidermis), this wave is responsible for causing  the skin to redden burn. Since UVA rays penetrate more deeply, this ray is known as the tanning ray and ageing ray. Since both damage our skin we need to protect ourselves from both!

 

So how does UV light cause our skin to age?

Research shows that UV light damages the skin via molecular mechanisms and around 50% is  of damage is from causing free radicals which harm skin cells. UV light causes direct cell injury & DNA damage. UV light activates the enzymes: matrix metalloproteinases, which break down collagen and damage the skins support structure, causing sagging and or deep wrinkles.  Sadly these enzymes are also able to prevent new collagen production. Research also shows that UV light causes and accumulation of  a protein: progerin, which can limit the skin cells lifespan, causing the skin to be a less effective barrier of protection to us.

 

Fortunately we can control the amount of UV light our skin is exposed to.  Just think how much more cost effective it is to prevent the damage in the first place than to try and reverse the damage later!

Other extrinsic factors that cause skin to age include: smoking, pollution & diet. These are non genetic factors also called exposome, which will be discussed in another blog.

If you're looking for a great sunscreen, be sure to visit the shop tab for some budget friendly options.

 

In skin with colour/ethnic skin, where the melanin that gives our skin colour is in more abundance and since such melanin absorbs UV light and block free radical damage, darker skin is more protected from sun damage & ageing. However coloured skin is more prone to pigmentation. Other inflamatory skin  conditions such as eczema, acne & psoriasis often leaves dark staining on the skin sometimes for months , which is refered to as post inflamatory hyperpigmentation (PIH.)

Dark skin is less prone to sagging and wrinkles compared to the same aged white skin. Having said this prolonged sun exposure over time  will lead to signs of ageing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Effects of Local Vibration: Introduction to Vibration Release Techniques

By Brent Brookbush DPT, PT, COMT, MS, PES, CES, CSCS, ACSM H/FS

 

Introduction

Local vibration, that is vibration directly applied to a muscle, was used in studies as early as the 1960s to investigate sensory afferents, reflexes, and motor response (1-6, 9, 12-13, 22, 40-41). Note, this paper has purposefully excluded whole-body and indirect vibration research. Hundreds of studies have been published investigating whole-body vibration training; however, the intent of such training, effects, and mechanisms involved may be different than local vibration.

 

 

Key Points for Practical Application

Pre-exercise local vibration reduces signs and chemical markers of delayed onset muscle soreness (DOMS) and may improve performance in subsequent frequent workouts.

Local vibration is effective for reducing acute muscle pain (and can be added to a home program via the devices like the Hypervolt by Hyperice® or similar devices).

 

 

Local vibration alone may be sufficient to increase strength in deconditioned muscles/individuals.

Current research implies that adding vibration to self-administered release techniques (SMR) (e.g. foam rolling) enhances benefits for DOMS, pain pressure sensitivity, and increasing proprioception. Further research is needed to refine protocols and determine whether adding vibration to SMR enhances benefits for increasing range of motion and improving power performance when used as a warm-up

 

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Summary of Receptor Response to Local Vibration

Local vibration has been used to study sensory afferents and muscle response since the 1960s.

Studies have demonstrated that high-frequency vibration preferentially stimulates type Ia sensory afferents (dynamic muscle spindle), and results in much less stimulation of type Ib sensory afferents (Golgi tendon organ) and type II afferents (static muscle spindle afferents).

Research suggests that length, stretch, and increased tension in the muscle being vibrated increase the facilitation of receptors, including type Ib and type II afferents.

Local vibration results in simultaneous agonist inhibition and tonic contraction (known as the tonic vibration reflex or TVR), and reciprocal inhibition of the functional antagonist.

Local vibration may result in a reduction in muscle tone (H-reflex sensitivity) while potentiating the reactive component of stretch reflex (T-reflex) associated with the performance of sport and power activities such as running and jumping.

 

Studies demonstrate that the CNS is involved in agonist tonic contraction, inhibition of antagonists, and kinesthesia resulting from local vibration.

Studies imply that additional mechanoreceptors (Pacinian corpuscles, Ruffini endings, free nerve endings) play a significant role in motor control and muscle activity and that Pacinian corpuscles are the receptor most likely to respond to local vibration.

Local Vibration and Pain

 

Pre-exercise local vibration may be protective, reducing swelling, improving range of motion, and decreasing pain associated with DOMS.

Pre-exercise vibration attenuates chemical markers associated with DOMS including decreased CK, LDH, IL6, histamine, lymphocytes, and increased neutrophils.

Direct application of vibration may have benefits for addressing acute muscle pain (and can be added to a home program via the Hypervolt or similar devices).

Local Vibration and Muscle Performance

Local vibration alone may be sufficient to increase strength in deconditioned muscles/individuals.

Pre-exercise local vibration improved muscle performance when exercise was performed on subsequent days (frequently).

 

 

The application of pre-exercise local vibration should be limited to less than 10 minutes per muscle. (The Brookbush Institute protocols suggest 1 - 2 minutes per muscle and no more than 5 minutes)

The application of local vibration during training may attenuate sub-maximal concentric strength and maximal power; however, the limited benefit, lack of residual effect, and practical issues with wearing vibration technology warrant further study before use in strength and performance settings can be recommended. (Reminder, this is a statement based on studies investigating the direct application of vibration to muscles being trained, and does not include whole-body vibration research)

Currently, research implies that vibration added to foam rolling has a significant effect on DOMS, pain pressure sensitivity, and proprioception, and further research is needed to determine the effect on range of motion and power performance when used as a warm-up.

The Brookbush Institute recommends that local vibration (vibration release techniques) is used prior to lengthening techniques; however, some studies suggest that there may be some benefit to incorporating local vibration while stretching.

The Ordinary Part 1

The Ordinary has taken pricey ingredients – from rosehip to retinol – stripped away all the frills and given the market effective formulas at very affordable prices.

All the products exclude parabens, cheap filler mineral oil and any other synthetics. The brand's product labels are tricky to understand initially.

 

Its important to be reminded that everyone’s skin is unique and will react differently to the exact same products or ingredients. A“one size fits all” doesen't apply. The following are recommendations, not guarantees. Taking care of skin is a process thats based on consistency and patience. Even though there are a lot of products in this range, you do not need them all. Start off with 5-7 depending on your skin type and make notes of your routines to track effects before adding more.

 

Each skin type will need a different set of products to maintain a healthy dermis, there are some ingredients everyone could benefit from. Sunscreen should be a priority as sun damage causes both short and both long term issues, as well as antioxidants, retinoids/retinols and moisturizing factors that support barrier function. These ingredients form the foundatuion of a good all-round routine that should keep the skin healthy and able to protect and repair itself effectively.

 

 

THE ORDINARY HOW TO USE WHAT WHEN:

 

General signs of age:

 

AM

"Buffet", Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

PM

"Buffet", Granactive Retinoid 2% or 5% in Squalane, 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil

Always avoid unprotected solar exposure.

 

Routine for pigmentation issues:

 

AM

Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10%

PM

Alpha Arbutin 2% +: HA, Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

Note: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F can be applied in the PM before Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% for added support.

Always avoid unprotected solar exposure.

 

 

Routine for hydration issues:

AM

Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA

 

PM

Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, 100% Plant-Derived Squalane

Note: Alternatively, 100% Cold-Pressed Virgin Marula Oil or 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Moroccan Argan Oil can be used instead of 100% Plant-Derived Squalane in the PM.

Always avoid unprotected solar exposure.

 

Routine for signs of congestion & the look of blemishes:

AM

Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

PM

Salicylic Acid 2% Solution, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

Note: For non-comedogenic surface hydration, apply 100% Plant-Derived Squalane as the last step in the AM and PM.

Always avoid unprotected solar exposure.

 

Routine for textural irregularities:

AM

Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

PM

Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution, Granactive Retinoid 2% or 5% in Squalane

Note: AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution can be applied as a masque up to twice per week in the PM.

Always avoid unprotected solar exposure.

Part 2: How to layer The Ordinary

 

 

 

Layering skincare products should be applied from the thinnest / clearest to the heaviest / opaque. I suggest you sort your products into the different solutions (water, emulsion, oil) and mark them 1, 2, 3, 4. It´s all about layering the products so they are able to penetrate the skin.

The Ordinary Product Solutions.

 

There are 5 different types of solutions (bases)

 Water

 Anhydrous

 Suspension

 Oil

 Emulsion

 

Deciem recommend layering The Ordinary the following way:

 

1. Water-based solutions first

2. Anhydrous or oil formulations

3. Emulsion / cream

4. Suspensions, now this is the tricky one! Some say suspension before emulsion/creams and some say after. Deciem has mentioned that Vitamin C 23%, 30% and Azelaic Acid should be applied after Natural Moisturising Factors but in some answers, they have said to apply before. See what suits you and your skin.

The Ordinary Products By Solutions

Water = 1

Apply these to cleansed skin. If you use numerous water-based products, Deciem recommend starting with the one which helps the skin condition you are trying to target the most.

 

 AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution* (masque)

 Amino Acids

 Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%

 Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA

 Argireline Solution 10%

 “Buffet”

 Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1%

 Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG

 Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution

  Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

  Lactic Acid 5% + HA

  Lactic Acid 10% + HA

  Mandelic Acid 10% + HA

  Marine Hyaluronics

  Matrixyl 10% + HA

 Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

 Salicylic Acid 2% Solution

Anhydrous Solutions = 2

Apply Anhydrous products after water solutions (if using) and before Oils / Creams.

 Alpha Lipoic Acid 5% * use alone

 Ascorbic Acid 8% + Alpha Arbutin 2%

 EUK 134 0.1%

 Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution

 Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane

 Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane

  Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3%

 Retinoid 5% in Squalane

 Retinol 0.5% in Squalane

 Retinol 1% in Squalane

 Pycnogenol

 Exceptions

*High-Spreadability Fluid Primer (last step before makeup)

 

OILS = 3

Oils should be applied after water solutions and before creams/emulsions. Some people leave this as their last step or you could lock it all in with a cream-like Natural Moisturising Factors. Some people prefer to apply oil after creams. Remember, you can use these on their own.

  Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F

  “B” Oil

  Borage Seed Oil

  Moroccan Argan Oil

  Cold-Pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil

  Organic Virgin Chia Seed Oil

  Cold-Pressed Virgin Marula Oil

  Organic Virgin Sea-Buckthorn Fruit Oil

  100% Plant-Derived Squalane

  100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane

 

 

Emulsions = 4/5

This is where it gets a little more confusing and you need to do a bit of free-thinking. Emulsions/Creams are supposed to be the last step but this doesn’t really work except for the Natural Moisturising Factors and the Sun Creams.

 

 Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA

 Mineral UV Filters SPF 15 with Antioxidants

 Mineral UV Filters SPF 30 with Antioxidants

 Exceptions to the emulsion rule. These would go after water and before any oils and creams

 Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion (after water solution, before oil/creams)

 Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10% (after water solutions, before oils/creams)

 High-Adherence Silicone Primer (last step before makeup)

So as you can see, the rule 1,2,3, then 4 doesn’t always work, so you need to do a bit of free thinking which is why it’s really important you learn a little.

 

 

Suspensions = 4/5

Suspensions cause quite a bit of confusion. Although on the regimen page they say to apply these after water-based products, Deciem have mentioned to people, including myself, to use the Azelaic Acid before the Natural Moisturising Factors, and the Vitamin C after. But then in other comments, they have mentioned to use them the other way around. You can always check the Live Chat Deciem or post a question in Facebook Group. Totally confusing!

 

Deciem now say to apply these after Natural Moisturising Factors.

 Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

 Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2

Vitamin C Suspension 30% in Silicone

The Ordinary Regimen Examples

In bold you can see numbers (as above) which hopefully will help you understand how to layer The Ordinary. Remember, thinnest / clearest to heaviest / opaque. This is the order, but it doesn’t mean you have to always use all 4 of them, 1+2+3+4. You might just do 2+3 or 1+3+4, 1+1 or 1+2.

The Ordinary Part 3

Don’t buy too many products of the same solution or category and stick to the same routine for a good few weeks for the best results.

 

 

When you first shop at The Ordinary you will fill your basket right up because the products look so cheap. Resist! You will end with lots of products that conflict and not enough time to use them all.

Why Start Slowly?

If you use 3 products together for the first time and your skin has a reaction, how will you know which product caused it? Best practice is to introduce one product at a time.

 

Patch Testing:

 

Deciem recommend patch testing in case of an allergic reaction. Whilst most will not bother patch testing, but you have been warned!

Morning: – Cleanse, NIOD ( Noninvasive options in dermal science) SDSM (Superoxide Dismutase Sacharide Mist) and CAIS (Copper Amino Isolate Serum) (if you use them), toner, water-based serums, emulsions, creams/balms/oil, sunscreen/primer.

Evening: – Double cleanse, NIOD SDSM and CAIS (Copper Amino Isolate Serum) (if you use them), exfoliating toner or retinol, water-based serums, emulsions, creams/oils/balms.

***A note on Buffet/CAIS: Deciem have always stated that the copper peptide should be applied to the skin first before anything else. With CAIS, If you use the Glycolic Toner you either apply CAIS and wait at least one minute before applying the toner with your hands or in a spray bottle. If you choose to use the acid toner first then you have to wait at least 30 minutes before applying CAIS. Since Buffet being is a different texture this may not be easy. You can either skip the acid toner on the days you use Buffet or have one for night and the other for day. Or apply the acid toner and then Buffet after 30 minutes. If you like using a cotton pad with the toner then of course this will have to be done before applying Buffet/CAIS.

Read all instructions carefully and keep an eye out on how your skin is reacting.

 

 

Acne-Prone Skin:

 

The goal is to calm inflammation, support a healthy functioning skin barrier, balance oil production, heal blemishes (including red marks/scarring) and prevent new ones from forming. Hydration is so important for compromised (acne prone) skin and improving barrier function will help it to heal and protect itself from infections and bacteria that lead to inflammation and blemishes.

Morning:

· Cleanse

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Balancing Toner or Essence

· Eye Product

· Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

· Niacinamide 10% + Zinc PCA 1%

· EUK 134 0.1%

· Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% (as a moisturizer or Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA if your skin is dry)

· Mineral UV Filters SPF 30 with Antioxidants

· Coverage Foundation

Evening:

· Double Cleanse – Squalane Cleanser and/or cleanser of choice

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Eye Product

· Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution or a balancing toner

· Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

· Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion (use on alternate nights to the Toning Solution)

· 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rosehip Seed Oil and/or 100% Cold-Pressed Virgin Marula Oil

Extras: Salicylic Acid 2% Solution to spot treat, NIOD FM as an anti-inflammatory masque and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10% if it does not cause irritation as an alternative antioxidant product to EUK 134 0.1%.

 

 

Dry/Dehydrated Skin:

 

The obvious goal is keeping the skin hydrated and moisturized. Each step does exactly that and should help the skin stay plump.

 

Morning:

· Cleanse

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Hydrating Toner or Essence

· Eye Product

· Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

· EUK 134 0.1% or Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12% (or any of the others),

· Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA

· Mineral UV Filters SPF 30 with Antioxidants

· High-Spreadability Fluid Primer and Serum Foundation

 

Evening:

· Double Cleanse – Squalane Cleanser and/or cleanser of choice

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Eye Product

· Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution or Lactic Acid 5% + HA

· Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

· Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane (on alternate nights to any acid use)

· Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA and/or 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Moroccan Argan Oil

 

Extras: Argireline Solution 10% if wrinkles are a dry skin side effect and AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution as a weekly treatment.

 

 

Oily/Combination Skin:

 

Here the most important thing is balance. These products will help the skin regulate its oil production by providing it with the moisture and hydration it needs. The acids will help stop pores getting clogged by the excess oil and sebum.

 

Morning:

· Cleanse

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Eye Product

· Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution or a Balancing Toner

· Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

· Niacinamide 10% + Zinc PCA 1%

· Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% (used as a moisturizer)

· Mineral UV Filters SPF 30 with Antioxidants

· High Adherence Silicone Primer and Coverage Foundation

 

Evening:

· Double Cleanse – Squalane Cleanser and/or cleanser of choice

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Eye Product

· Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution

· Niacinamide 10% + Zinc PCA 1%

· Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion (on alternate nights to the Toning Solution)

· 100% Plant-Derived Squalane

 

Extras: Salicylic Acid 2% Solution or AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution as a weekly treatment.

 

 

Dull/Uneven/Hyperpigmented Skin:

 

This routine should help the skin shed it’s hyperpigmented cells revealing a bright, clear, uniform skin tone. Improving dull skin takes time and patience.

 

Morning:

· Cleanse

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Eye Product

· Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution or Brightening Toner

· Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA and/or Niacinamide 10% + Zinc PCA 1%

· Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%

· Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% (as a moisturizer and/or Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA if your skin is dry)

· Mineral UV Filters SPF 30 with Antioxidants

· High-Spreadability Fluid Primer and Serum Foundation

·

Evening:

· Double Cleanse – Squalane Cleanser and/or cleanser of choice

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Eye Product

· Brightening Toner

· Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3%

· Vitamin C Suspension 30% in Silicone

· Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane or Retinol 1% in Squalane (on alternate night to the Vit C 30% and R 3%+FA 3%).

· 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rosehip Seed Oil

 

Extras: AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution or Lactic Acid 10% + HA as a weekly treatment.

 

 

Sensitive Skin (including Rosacea):

 

The primary goal is to support a healthy barrier function that will protect it from adverse reactions and keep it calm and balanced.

 

Morning:

· Cleanse

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Soothing Toner

· Eye Product

· Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

· Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% or Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA

· Mineral UV Filters SPF 30 with Antioxidants

· High-Spreadability Fluid Primer and Serum Foundation

 

Evening:

· Double Cleanse – Squalane Cleanser and/or cleanser of choice

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Soothing Toner

· Eye Product

· Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

· Lactic Acid 5% + HA (if you would like to use an acid)

· Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion or Retinol 0.2% in Squalane (on alternate nights to any acids as long as it doesn’t cause irritation)

· 100% Plant-Derived Squalane and/or 100% Cold-Pressed Virgin Marula Oil

 

Extras: EUK 134 0.1% or Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12% for some antioxidant protection if your skin can handle it.

 

 

Mature Skin:

 

Mature skin needs hydration & more hydration! Targeted treatments are to keep skin soft and youthful.

 

Morning:

· Cleanse

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution

· Hydrating toner

· Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 and/or Buffet

· EUK 134 0.1% (use on alternate days to the Toning Solution)

· Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA

· Mineral UV Filters SPF 30 with Antioxidants

· High-Spreadability Fluid Primer and Serum Foundation

 

Evening:

· Double Cleanse – Squalane Cleanser and/or cleanser of choice

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Lactic Acid 10% + HA

· Buffet and/or Matrixyl 10% + HA

· Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F

· Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3%

· Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane or Retinol 1% in Squalane (on alternate nights to Vit C and R 3%+FA 3%)

· 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Moroccan Argan Oil and 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rosehip Seed Oil

 

Extras: AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution or Alpha Lipoic Acid 5% as weekly treatments and Argireline Solution 10% for deep wrinkles.

 

 

Normal Skin:

 

Since this skin functions very well most of the time, rarely breaks out, heals itself quickly and is balanced and hydrated. Some basics are required to support the equilibrium with some extras to target any issues like sun damage,fine lines or wrinkles or hormonal congestion.

 

Morning:

· Cleanse

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Toner (geared towards your specific needs)

· Eye Product

· Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

· EUK 134 0.1%

· Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA

· Mineral UV Filters SPF 30 with Antioxidants or High-Spreadability Fluid Primer and Serum Foundation

 

Evening:

· Double Cleanse – Squalane Cleanser and/or cleanser of choice

· “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% or NIOD SDSM and CAIS (if you use them)

· Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution

· Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

· Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% and/or Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%

· Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion (on alternate nights to any acid use)

· 100% Plant-Derived Squalane and/or any of the other oils

 

Extras: AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution and/or any of the targets treatments mentioned above that suit your needs.

 

Skincare is not an exact science and your skin may or may not react exactly as it should.These recommendations are a guide to help choose the right products for you, it’s important to track how your skin responds and tweak accordingly. You might find you like using an ingredient more or less or some products might work really well and others not at all. You can mix and match the products that work best for you to create a routine with ingredients that will address your specific issues. Don’t be afraid to experiment (with caution) and really try to discover what your skin responds to.

 

   PHYTOCERAMIDES – WHAT ARE THEY & WHAT ARE THEIR BENEFITS?

 

 

 

 

If you're into drinking collagen and doing gua sha facial massages, you'll want to know more about phytoceramides.

 

Phytoceramides are found in many face creams and serums, they are a plant-derived fat molecule, mimicking the skin's natural barrier function to moisturize.

Phytoceramides are the real deal since they work with your skin, providing the material needed to smooth microcracks and seal in moisture.

 

Who doesn’t want a youthful glow?

Let's see how ceramides can help together with the science behind adding phytoceramides to your beauty supplements.

 

First, what exactly are ceramides? Ceramides are polar lipids, essential and naturally found in our skin cells. They form the barrier between the outside environment and our body, locking in moisture and protecting our skin

The skin barrier is likened to “bricks," where ceramides are part of the mortar holding it all together—50%, in fact.

Their role is keeping your skin moisturized and glowing. If you want to address the source of dry skin and wrinkles, the loss of ceramides may be the answer.

 

With ageing we stop producing as many ceramides, which compromising the skin barrier to an extent. Diluting the effect of the glue to hold our skin together environmental toxins can get in and moisture can get out resulting in possible irritation, dry skin and wrinkles, which is from declining ceramides. Psoriasis and eczema have also been attributed to low ceramide levels.

 

Since Phytoceramides are ceramides derived from plants and have a similar lipid structure to the ceramides found in skin they may help replenish ceramide stores. Yes, you can use ceramides topically, most of the science points to addressing your phytoceramides from supplements for results, providing a continuous stream of ceramides, naturally supporting stores from the inside out.

 

Dietary sources of ceramides are eggs, rice and wheat,but not well absorbed in digestion unfortunately.

 

Scientific benefits of phytoceramides:

 

Fights ageing

Blemish control

Hydration

 

Proactivity is the key to fighting ageing and wrinkles specifically. and maintaining skin integrity. Dermatologist attest to the biggest contributor to the ageing process being :air pollution, smoking, followed by stress." The condition of the skin barrier determines how your skin reacts to these skin stressors.

 

Ceramides are the first line of defense against environmental toxins, protecting your skin from damage. Supporting your ceramides with phytoceramide supplements can help that barrier stay strong, warding off wrinkles and other signs of aging.Ceramosides™, is a patented synergetic complex of concentrated phytoceramides and other lipids. When taken orally, this specific combination allows for improved skin hydration with a low daily dose after only 15 days.

 

As has been studied to show improved skin smoothness and elasticity in weeks. We accept that wrinkles are part of ageing, however by keeping skin well hydrated and healthy will give you a certain glow. Brands using Ceramosides are: Cleanse first beauty guard, Swanson’s advanced phytoceramides, revitalise collagen hydrapump, liquid health skin rescue and renew, Ageoff glow, Neocell ceramides skin hydrators to name a few. ( May not be available in the UK.)

 

Breakouts are not only due to hormones, but could be due to falling ceramide levels. Many acne sufferers also have low ceramide levels . So blemishes can be another sign of skin barrier damage. Researchers confirm that a weak skin barrier, together with other triggers ( stress and poor diet), could bring on a breakout.

 

A common side effect of acne treatment is dry skin, meaning it could be a vicious cycle of acne care products depleting ceramide levels, leading to damaged skin and then more breakouts. Dermatologists suggest phytoceramides taken together with other products will reduce the cycle of breakouts.

 

Our natural ceramides are all about keeping moisture in the skin, and prevent water loss. Adding phytoceramides to your skin care routine does seem to have skin-quenching benefits with studies showing up to a 35% increase in hydration after a month! Try phytoceramides to get rid of dry scaly skin.

Of course, phytoceramides are not a magical fountain of youth, and wrinkles are a natural part of aging. But keeping your skin healthy and hydrated can certainly give you a youthful glow.

 

 

It may help clear up blemishes.

Hormones aren't the only thing to blame for your breakouts—it could be due to falling ceramide levels. It turns out some people who suffer from acne have low ceramide levels that could be contributing to the issue. So, blemishes may just be another sign of skin barrier damage. Researchers believe that a weak skin barrier, coupled with other triggers (think poor diet and stress), could bring on a breakout.

Interestingly, a common side effect of acne treatment is dry skin, meaning it could be a vicious cycle of acne care products depleting ceramide levels, leading to damaged skin and then more breakouts. More research is needed, but dermatologists hope phytoceramide supplementation in combination with other treatments could help end the cycle.

 

In terms of dosage, research has been done using 11 to 70 mg.

 

Topical use of ceramide creams:

 

Ceramides are also effective when combined with other ‘skin identical’ ingredients such as glycerine, amino acids & cholesterol. These are known as lipid mixtures for improving skin tone and reducing signs of skin irritation. If using a topical ceramide, make sure it is enriched with antioxidants, niacinamide, peptides and retinol. You an also use it with your AHA/BHA exfoliant, which removes the dead skin cells.